Few upgrades can breathe new life into an old laptop like an SSD. Solid-state drives have no moving parts, instead relying on the same kind of flash memory used in USB thumb drives. That makes them significantly faster than traditional hard drives. They also consume less power, good news for laptop users looking to squeeze extra runtime from aging batteries.
The flipside is that SSDs have a higher cost-per-megabyte than regular drives. If your primary upgrade goal is to increase your available storage, you’re definitely better off with the latter. But if you can get by with, say, 128GB or 256GB, you’re in for big boost in boot speed, overall performance, and battery life.
You’ll want to shop around, but you can routinely find 120GB SSDs for around $120, with 256GB models selling in the $200 range. Make sure the interface (usually SATA III) is compatible with your laptop, and look for drives that come as part of a kit. These often include transfer software for moving everything from your old drive to the new one, plus an external drive enclosure so you can continue to use the old drive for extra storage.
An ideal upgrade for any computer of any age: add a second monitor. Sure, you’ll need to clear a little extra space on your desk, but the benefits far outweigh the hassles of relocating a few tchotchkes.
With a second monitor, you get to keep two apps running full-screen at the same time. This may not sound like a huge deal, but think how handy it would be to have, say, your Web browser and word processor visible at all times. Or your e-mail client and an important spreadsheet. Or a PowerPoint presentation and your image-editing program. You get the idea.
This approach not only saves you the time and hassle of switching back and forth between windows, but also makes multiple windows visible simultaneously—great for when you need to, say, drag and drop data from one to another.
Best of all, monitors are cheap. You can add a 22-inch LCD to your setup for around $150, or a 24-inch display for under $200. Just make sure your desktop or laptop has a spare video output (most models do), and make sure the monitor is compatible with that port. VGA is the standard, but many newer PCs rely on DVI or HDMI. Check the manual if you’re not sure what you have.
One easy and inexpensive way to improve an older PC’s performance is to install more RAM. How does this help? More RAM means more room for programs to run, and less time accessing the hard drive, which is a comparative slowpoke.
For example, suppose your laptop or desktop is a few years old. If you bought a lower-end model, it might have only 2 gigabytes (GB) of RAM. By doubling that, you can enjoy a fairly significant speed boost. Windows and Mac OS alike run much more smoothly on 4GB than they do on 2GB.
Depending on the type and configuration of your system, this upgrade might be as simple as adding a memory module. Head to Crucial.com and use the Crucial Memory Advisor Tool to find out what RAM you already and what your upgrade options are. (You don’t have to buy the actual modules from Crucial; once you have the information, you can shop around for the best prices.)
One important consideration: If you run Windows XP or a 32-bit version of Windows Vista or Windows 7, there’s no value in installing more than 4GB of RAM: the operating system can’t address any more than that. But if you have a 64-bit OS, consider upgrading to 8GB for maximum performance benefits.
Is your PC getting a little long in the tooth? Does it take forever to boot? Maybe you’re plagued by virus-like symptoms, such as a flaky Web browser or unwanted pop-ups.
Issues like these often drive people to start shopping for a new machine. Although the time may come when you have no alternative (like when hardware components start failing), don’t put the old gal out to pasture just yet. With a few strategic and affordable upgrades, you can give your PC a performance and/or productivity shot in the arm.
One easy and inexpensive way to improve an older PC’s performance is to install more RAM. How does this help? More RAM means more room for programs to run, and less time accessing the hard drive, which is a comparative slowpoke.
For example, suppose your laptop or desktop is a few years old. If you bought a lower-end model, it might have only 2 gigabytes (GB) of RAM. By doubling that, you can enjoy a fairly significant speed boost. Windows and Mac OS alike run much more smoothly on 4GB than they do on 2GB.
Depending on the type and configuration of your system, this upgrade might be as simple as adding a memory module. Head to Crucial.com and use the Crucial Memory Advisor Tool to find out what RAM you already and what your upgrade options are. (You don’t have to buy the actual modules from Crucial; once you have the information, you can shop around for the best prices.)
One important consideration: If you run Windows XP or a 32-bit version of Windows Vista or Windows 7, there’s no value in installing more than 4GB of RAM: the operating system can’t address any more than that. But if you have a 64-bit OS, consider upgrading to 8GB for maximum performance benefits.
Add a second monitor
(photo: Rick Broida)
An ideal upgrade for any computer of any age: add a second monitor. Sure, you’ll need to clear a little extra space on your desk, but the benefits far outweigh the hassles of relocating a few tchotchkes.
With a second monitor, you get to keep two apps running full-screen at the same time. This may not sound like a huge deal, but think how handy it would be to have, say, your Web browser and word processor visible at all times. Or your e-mail client and an important spreadsheet. Or a PowerPoint presentation and your image-editing program. You get the idea.
This approach not only saves you the time and hassle of switching back and forth between windows, but also makes multiple windows visible simultaneously—great for when you need to, say, drag and drop data from one to another.
Best of all, monitors are cheap. You can add a 22-inch LCD to your setup for around $150, or a 24-inch display for under $200. Just make sure your desktop or laptop has a spare video output (most models do), and make sure the monitor is compatible with that port. VGA is the standard, but many newer PCs rely on DVI or HDMI. Check the manual if you’re not sure what you have.
Install an SSD
(photo: Rick Broida)
Few upgrades can breathe new life into an old laptop like an SSD. Solid-state drives have no moving parts, instead relying on the same kind of flash memory used in USB thumb drives. That makes them significantly faster than traditional hard drives. They also consume less power, good news for laptop users looking to squeeze extra runtime from aging batteries.
The flipside is that SSDs have a higher cost-per-megabyte than regular drives. If your primary upgrade goal is to increase your available storage, you’re definitely better off with the latter. But if you can get by with, say, 128GB or 256GB, you’re in for big boost in boot speed, overall performance, and battery life.
You’ll want to shop around, but you can routinely find 120GB SSDs for around $120, with 256GB models selling in the $200 range. Make sure the interface (usually SATA III) is compatible with your laptop, and look for drives that come as part of a kit. These often include transfer software for moving everything from your old drive to the new one, plus an external drive enclosure so you can continue to use the old drive for extra storage.
Reinstall Windows
The ultimate PC upgrade isn’t an upgrade at all, though it’ll sure feel that way when you’re done. If you’re willing to invest a little time and effort (but no money), you can make your PC as fast and hassle-free as the day you took it out of the box.
How is that possible? By erasing the entire hard drive and reinstalling Windows. This isn’t a quick procedure—you’ll need time to make backup copies of all your important data and an external hard drive to temporarily house all that data. You’ll also need a Windows installation disc or whatever system-restoration discs were provided by your computer manufacturer. (For a full step-by-step tutorial, see the Resources area below.)
This is a hassle, no doubt about it. But if your computer is a few years old, you won’t believe the difference. What was once a pokey, troublesome machine will seem brand new—and that “new” PC won’t have cost you a cent.
Like your body, your house, and your car, your PC needs regular cleaning to keep it running smoothly. There might be dust bunnies choking its fans, junk files clogging the hard drive, maybe even stealth viruses slowing down the entire system. Fortunately, with a little maintenance of your hardware and software alike, you can restore your PC to its former trouble-free glory, and perhaps even squeeze a few extra years out of it.
Clean out the dust
(photo: Rick Broida)
Computers generate a lot of heat. Fans help dissipate all that heat, which would otherwise shorten the life of internal components and even cause system crashes. Unfortunately, as time goes by, those fans suck in a lot of dust and pet hair, which accumulates to the point where components don’t cool properly and the fans themselves get clogged--sometimes to the point of failure.
That’s why it’s essential to blow the dust out of your PC, and do so on a regular basis (at least every six months). If you have a desktop PC, turn the system off, remove the side panel, then use a can of compressed air to blow out all the dust. (You may want to do this outside.) Hit the fan blades with short bursts as well, making sure to get all the fans inside the system (including those inside the power supply and on your video card). Pay special attention to any heat sinks you see; they usually reside on the motherboard on your video card.
Laptops require a bit more surgery. After turning it off, remove the battery and unplug the AC adapter. Now flip the laptop over and look for an access panel that’s in close proximity to any air vent on an outer edge of the laptop. (Some laptops have multiple panels, others may have a single, very large one.)
Using a small screwdriver, unscrew that panel and remove it. You should see a fan somewhere underneath. Now it's time to blow out the dust with your can of compressed air (again, outside may be preferable). Hit the blades, the areas around the fan, the air vents, and anywhere else you see dust within the laptop’s guts.
After you've blown out all the dust, replace the access panel and battery, then power up the system. It should run quieter and cooler than it did before, and the added bonus is your components will last longer.
Clean out the junk
Fortunately, a PC “spring cleaning” doesn’t require a mop, a broom, or even a trashcan. (Well, maybe a virtual one.) All you need is a utility designed to find and remove all that accumulated junk.Every spring you clear out all the stuff that’s cluttering up your house, right? Your computer can get similarly cluttered with so-called “junk” files, which accumulate over time. These are temporary and/or superfluous files produced by Windows and various programs, and the more of them that pile up, the slower your PC will run.
One popular option: Piriform’s CCleaner (which was originally known as “Crap Cleaner,” which should give you some idea as to its function). This free program, available for both Windows and Mac, scours your computer and Web browser for temporary files, form histories, and other potentially unnecessary stuff. On Windows machines it will also clean the Registry of old and unused entries. Run CCleaner every few months to keep your computer, well, clean!
Defrag your hard drive--if you have to
There’s another kind of “junk” that can accumulate on your PC: Tiny file fragments that get scattered across your hard drive over time. Years ago, it was important to run some sort of defragmentation utility (colloquially known as a “defragger”) to put your drive’s house in order, so to speak.
Today, things are a bit different. If your PC has Windows XP and a relatively small hard drive (320 gigabytes or less), a monthly defrag is still a good idea. You can do this using Windows’ built-in defragger: Open My Computer, right-click the icon for your hard drive, then click Properties. Switch to the Tools tab, click Defragment Now, then click Defragment to begin.
Newer PCs with larger hard drives don’t really need this kind of manual attention, especially considering that Windows Vista, Windows 7, and Windows 8 all have automated defraggers that run at scheduled times. That said, many users swear by pro-level utilities like Diskeeper, which promise to do a faster and more effective job than Windows’ own tools.
One caveat: If your PC has a solid-state drive (SSD), don’t defrag it. Doing so can actually shorten its lifespan, and the nature of SSD technology is such that there’s no benefit from defragging anyway.
Wipe the hard drive
If you really want to “clean” your PC, consider a radical step: wipe the hard drive and reinstall Windows. That’s the kind of project that can consume an afternoon, if not an entire weekend, but the end result is a computer that’s literally like new—and probably good for another couple years of duty (assuming the hardware is still ship-shape).
The broad strokes of this process look like this: You make a list of everything important on your PC (programs, documents, photos, bookmarks, address books, and so on), then use a backup tool to offload all the data to an external hard drive. (The programs can be reinstalled from discs and/or downloads, so there’s no need to preserve them.)
Next, you use whatever system-restoration discs came with your PC. (If it didn’t come with any, contact your manufacturer about creating or obtaining a set.) This will erase the hard drive and reload Windows (along with any software supplied by the manufacturer). When that’s done, you simply reinstall your programs, then restore your data.
There are countless tutorials online that provide step-by-step instructions for this procedure, and it’s a good idea to review the entire process before beginning, just so you don’t encounter any unwelcome surprises. Again, this can be a somewhat scary exercise, but when the work is done, you’ll love the snappy, like-new performance of your squeaky-clean PC.
Want To Trace Someone's IP Address While Chatting On Facebook?
Here is the way to do so-
First you got to find out the IP address of that User.
To Do so I will be using “netstat” command in windows. If you want to know the IP address of a specific person on Facebook or orkut or any chatservice, there is only one way: Just invite or ping him for a chat and while chat is ON open ‘Command Prompt‘ on your PC (Start >Run>cmd).
note:before trying this make sure you close all the other tabs in your browser and only facebook is open. Also if possible delete all the history and cache from your browser.
note:You can not trace people behind proxy servers!
When command prompt opens, type the following command and hit Enter.
netstat -an
And you will get all established connections IP addresses there. Note down all the suspicious IP’s
The Next Step is to Trace that user using his IP address.
To do so I will be using IP tracer service. Go to the below address and paste the IP address in the box that says “lookup this ip or website”. and it will show you the location of the user.
It will show you all the information about that user along with his ISP and a "Location(Server)" in the MAP. Now in the MAP Just click on “click for big ip address location” in the big picture you can actually zoom in. and try to recognize the area. If any serious matter just note down the ISP details in that page and contact them about the IP. they will respond to you.You can also complain about the ip to cop@vsnl.co.in!
Other netstat commands: -a Displays all connections and listening ports. -e Displays Ethernet statistics. This may be combined with the -s option. -n Displays addresses and port numbers in numerical form. -p proto Shows connections for the protocol specified by proto; proto may be TCP or UDP. -s option to display per-protocol statistics, proto may be TCP, UDP, or IP. -r Displays the routing table. -s Displays per-protocol statistics. By default, statistics are shown for TCP, UDP and IP; the -p option may be used to specify a subset of the default.
How can I test for hardware failures in my computer?
Answer
Click on one of the below links for the hardware device you're wanting to test. Or browse through the complete document if you're trying to diagnose whether or not the computer has bad hardware.
Tip: Although hardware failures can occur with your computer, if it is encountering errors, make sure you've exhausted all software troubleshooting. The majority of errors encountered on a computer are caused by software or hardware drivers, and not a failing hardware device. See thebasic troubleshooting section for a good starting point in troubleshooting your computer.
Although there are programs such as speedfan to help monitor the voltage and power supplied to the fans in the computer there is no software utility to test the integrity of computer power supplies.
There are methods of testing the power connectors on a power supply using a multimeter. However, because of the potential damage that can be caused to the power supply, potentially the motherboard and other components connected to it, this information is not posted on Computer Hope. We suggest users who believe their power supply is failing or is already bad, replace it.
A network may not work because of any of the below reasons.
Network or router connection issue card not connected properly.
Bad network card drivers or software settings.
Firewall preventing computers from seeing each other.
Connection related issues.
Bad network hardware.
Solution
Because of the variety of network configurations, operating systems, setup, etc. not all of the below information may apply to your network or operating system.
Note: We cannot assist you with network problems due to unknown passwords or unknown ISP settings.
Adapter resources
Verify that the network adapter is properly installed and detected by the computer with no conflicts. If you're using Microsoft Windows check in Device Manager and verify there are no errors and "Network adapters" is present with each network adapter installed in the computer listed, similar to the example on the right.
If conflicts exist or the network adapter is being detected as an Other device. The network card has not been properly installed in the computer. Try letting Windows re-detect and install the Network card by removing the network adapter and any other conflict devices from Device Manager and then rebooting the computer. If Windows re-detects the card but does not find the drivers, download the network adapter drivers from the computer manufacturer or the network card manufacturer.
If this is a wired network, verify that the network cable is properly connected and make sure the LEDs next to the network jack are properly illuminated. For example, a network card with asolid green LED or light usually indicates that the card is either connected or receiving a signal. If the green light is flashing, this is an indication of data being sent or received. In the picture to the right, is an example of LAN port with two LED indicators next to the RJ-45 port. With this port, one LED will light up if connected properly and the other will flash when transmitting data.
If there are no lights or the lights are orange or red the card may be bad, not connected properly, or that the card is not receiving a signal from the network. If you are on a small or local network and have the capability of checking a hub, switch, or router verify that the cables are properly connected and that it has power. If after checking the connections the LED indicators appear bad, the network adapter, port, or cable may be defective.
Wireless Network
If you're using a laptop with a wireless network make sure if the laptop has a Wi-Fi button that it is turned on. Many laptops will have a Wi-Fi button that allows the wireless network to be turned on and off. In the picture to the right, is an example of a Wi-Fi button that is currently enabled.
If the Wi-Fi button is turned on, make sure you're connecting to the correct Wi-Fi hotspot by right-clicking on the Network icon in the Windows notification area and clicking "Connect to a network". Usually, the network with the strongest connection (the most bars) will be your wireless router.
Finally, when connecting to most wireless networks you will need to enter the proper SSID (password) in order to connect to the network. If the incorrect SSID has been entered you will be denied access to the network.
Adapter functionality
Verify that the network card is capable of pinging itself by using the ping command. Windows users can ping the computer from a Windows command line. Unix and Linux users can ping from the shell.
To ping the card or the localhost, type either
ping 127.0.0.1
or
ping localhost
Doing either of the above commands should get replies from the network card. If you receive an error or if the transmission fails the network card is not physically installed into the computer correctly, has the incorrect drivers, or that the card is bad.
Connect to the router
If all of the above steps have been checked and your network has a router, make sure the computer can connect to the router by performing the below commands.
Determine the routers address
Using the ipconfig command (or ifconfig command for Linux) determine the router's address by looking at the Gateway address. Below are the steps for Microsoft Windows users, Linux users can substitute ipconfig for ifconfig.
The Default Gateway is the address of your router. Most home routers will have a gateway address that starts with 192.168 like the address shown above. Assuming your gateway address is 192.168.1.1 attempt to ping the router to see if it can send and receive information by running the below command.
ping 192.168.1.1
If you get replies back from the router, the connection between your router and computer are good, and you can skip to the next step.
If you do not receive any replies back from the router either the router is not setup properly or your connection between the router and the computer are not correct. Reset your router to make sure it is not a problem with your router by following the below steps.
Turn off the power to the computer and leave it off.
Leave the power cables disconnected for 10-15 seconds and then plug in your modem and then your router again.
Finally, turn on your computer again and repeat this step to see if you can ping your router.
If you're using a wireless network and have followed all the above steps and still are unable to ping the router try turning off the computer again and connect the computer to the router using a cable instead of trying to connect using wireless. If a wire does also not work connect the manufacturer of the router for additional support or replacement.
Firewall
If your computer network utilizes a firewall, make sure all required ports required are open, especially port 80, which is the HTTP port. If possible, disable the firewall software program or disconnect the computer from the firewall to make sure it is not causing the network problems.
Internet is not working
If you're able to ping the router, but are still unable to connect to the Internet, either your router is improperly configured or the ISP is having issues.
Note: Some ISPs such as Comcast require special software be installed. Make sure any software included with your Modem or other hardware has been installed on at least one computer if you are setting up a new Internet connection.
If your Internet has been working but recently stopped working, give it a few minutes to make sure it is not a temporary outage. If after waiting a few minutes, you still have problems and you have not disconnected the power to your router and modem already follow the below steps.
Turn off the power to the computer and leave it off.
Leave the power cables disconnected for 10-15 seconds and then plug in your modem and then your router again.
Finally, turn on your computer again and repeat this step to see if you can ping your router.
If after following the above steps the Internet is still not working, open the Windows command line and run the below command.
ping google.com
Running the above command should get a reply from Google. If you get a reply, this is an indication that the Internet is working, but you may be encountering a problem with theInternet browser you are using to browse the Internet. Try an alternative browser such asFirefox or Chrome.
If you're getting no reply from Google, your router or modem is not reaching the Internet. If you have a router, make sure your router has DHCP enabled and that the WAN or Gatewayaddress is the proper ISP address.
Finally, after verifying all of the above settings if your Internet is still not working we suggest contacting the ISP to make sure it is not a problem on their end and to assist you further with any special configurations that may not be mentioned in this document.
Additional troubleshooting
Another method of determining network issues is to use the tracert command if you are a Windows user or the traceroute command if you are a Linux or Unix variant user. This command will give you an overview of each of the devices (routers) a packet travels (hops) over a network and can give you an idea of where a problem exists in your network or outside of your network.
To use this command you must be at the command line and type one of the below commands depending on your operating system.
tracert google.com
or
traceroute google.com
If run successfully you should begin to see each hop between the computer and network devices. When the connection fails, determine what device is causing the issue by reviewing the traceroute listing.
Additional information
See our network definition for further information on networks and related links and information.
It may be necessary to do general scanner troubleshooting to help determine the cause or to help resolve a scanner related issue.
Solution
Verify cables connected properly to the back of the scanner
If the scanner is a parallel port scanner it is likely it has two available connections on the back of the scanner. Verify that the cable coming from the computer is connecting to the IN, Computer IN, computer, or similar connection.
Ensure that the scanner is getting power
If your scanner is not getting power it is recommended that you check the connections ensuring that they are connected properly to the back of the computer and from the scanner to the wall. If you have the scanner connected to a power strip or surge protector it is temporarily recommended that you connect the scanner directly to the wall.
If the computer scanner is getting power, you should notice the inside light come on when the power is first received by the scanner.
After checking the connections you still get no power to the scanner, it is recommended you contact the manufacturer of the scanner.
Additional parallel port scanner troubleshooting
If you have another device connected in between the scanner and the computer, turn off the computer and temporally disconnect the devices connected to or from the scanner. If, after disconnecting these devices, the scanner works, it is likely that another device may have issues or may be unable to work with other parallel devices.
PC Windows users verify no TSRs are running in the background
Press CTRL + ALT + DEL and end task all currently running software except explorer and Systray and scan again. If this resolves your issue it's a possibility that an application in the background such as a virus utility is preventing your scanner from scanning.
Verify the LPT port mode
PC users ensure that the LPT port mode within the computer BIOS is set to either EPP or bi-directional mode or try alternating between these two modes.
Update the drivers
Verify that the latest drivers are installed for the operating system being used on your computer. A listing of computer scanner manufacturers and links to the drivers pages can be found on our scanner drivers page.
A microphone not working can be caused by several different possibilities. Below is a listing of those different possibilities.
Not connected properly.
Issue with microphone.
Sound drivers not setup properly.
Solution
Not connected properly
Verify that the microphone is correctly connected to the computer. The microphone must usually be connected to the back of the computer into the microphone jack. The below illustration is an example of what to look for.
Issues with microphone
If the microphone is correctly connected to the back of the computer, ensure that you have a working Microphone. Some older microphones may require a battery; if you have such a microphone, verify that it has a working battery.
If you do not have such a microphone or the battery is a known good battery, verify that the microphone works on another device such as a stereo.
Sound drivers not setup properly
If the Microphone is correctly connected to the back of the computer and no issues have been found to be physically wrong with the microphone, verify that the sound card is properly setup in your operating system.
Verify that the floppy diskette that you are attempting to read from is not write protected or bad. Verify that the diskette is not write protected by sliding the tab into the position not allowing light to shine through it. If you do not have a tab place tape over this hole.
Because of the technology of floppy diskette drives, it is likely for a floppy diskettes to become bad. Verify that other floppy diskettes are not exhibiting the same issue.
If other floppies work it is likely that you may have a bad floppy diskette.
Not setup in CMOS
Verify that the floppy drive is properly setup in CMOS Setup. If the floppy drive is not setup properly you may experience read/write errors or the floppy may not work at all. Most computers need to have the floppy setup as a 3.5, 1.44MB.
Confliction with other hardware
If you have recently physically installed any new hardware such as a tape drive or other backup medium, temporarily disconnect that new hardware to ensure that it is not the cause of your floppy drive not working.
Not connected properly
Power down, unplug, and open computer, being aware of ESD and its potential dangers.
Verify that the floppy connection is connected to the motherboard FDD connector. If it appears to be connected, disconnect and reconnect cable to verify cable is seated properly.
Verify that the floppy cable coming from the motherboard is connected to the back of the floppy drive. If connected, disconnect and connect the floppy drive cable to verify seated properly.
Verify that a power connection is also connected to the back of the floppy drive.
If your floppy cable has more than one connection, verify that you have connected the floppy to the appropriate connection. The above picture illustrates what drive should be connected where.
Bad drivers
If you are not able to read or write to a floppy diskette from Windows, verify that the computer is not exhibiting floppy drivers issues by testing the floppy drive from MS-DOS.
If you are running Windows 3.x click File and click Exit Windows to get to an MS-DOS prompt.
If you are running Windows 95, Windows 98, Windows ME, Windows NT, Windows 2000, or Windows 2000 click Start, Shutdown, and Restart the computer to a MS-DOS prompt.
Once at the prompt, place a diskette into the floppy disk drive and type format a: if you get:
Invalid media or Track 0 Bad = Try formatting another floppy disk. Write Protect Error = Ensure that the disk is not write protected by removing the floppy disk and insuring that you cannot see through both holes; if you can, move the tab in the left hand side down (looking from the back of the floppy) and try again. If the disk is not write protected try another floppy disk. Invalid drive specification = Verify that you floppy drive is setup properly in CMOS Setup.
If the floppy disk drive formats properly in MS-DOS but does not format in Windows, it is likely that Windows or a program within Windows is preventing the floppy drive from working. End task all running TSRs and background programs. If you continue to experience the same issues we recommend that Windows be reinstalled.
Bad hardware
If you continue to experience issues after following the above steps it is likely that hardware within the computer is bad. Replace the following hardware in the computer in the below order.
Replace the floppy data cable that connects the computer floppy drive to the motherboard \ I/O board.
Replace the floppy if the floppy data cable did not resolve your issues.
Replace or request that the motherboard \ I/O board be replaced.
A mouse may not be detected in Windows because of any of the below possibilities.
Computer frozen
Make sure the computer is not frozen by pressing the num lock key on the keyboard. When pressing the num lock key the num lock indicator LED on your keyboard should turn on and off. If this indicator does not change, your computer is frozen, and all hardware on the computer including the mouse will not work. Reboot the computer to resolve this issue.
If any new hardware has been recently installed in the computer, remove that hardware before following the below troubleshooting steps to help verify the new hardware is not causing the issue.
Not connected properly
PS/2 mouse
If you are using a PS/2 mouse, verify that it is connected into the PS/2 mouse port and not the PS/2 keyboard port located on the back of the computer. If the mouse has worked properly in the past, turn off the computer and disconnect and reconnect the mouse.
Note: A PS/2 mouse should not be disconnected and reconnected while the computer is still turned on.
Tip: If the computer keyboard is working you can shutdown Windows properly by using the keyboard. Press the Windows key on the keyboard, and then use the arrow keys to move to the shut down option on the start menu.
USB mouse
If you are using a USB mouse disconnect and reconnect the mouse cable to another USB port. If the mouse still does not work after it has been reconnected and is connected to aUSB hub, connect the mouse to a USB port on the back of the computer.
Wireless mouse
Make sure it is turned on and that there is a power indicator. The power switch for a mouse is often found on the bottom of the mouse.
Make sure the wireless receiver is within range and is not blocked by another object.
Replace batteries
Mouse software or driver conflict
Boot into Windows Safe Mode. If the mouse is working in Safe Mode, there is likely a driver conflict or other software conflict. To resolve this conflict follow the below steps.
Expand the mouse (mice) option in Device Manager by clicking the '+' symbol.
Remove all mice listed by highlighting each device and pressing the delete key on the keyboard.
If the mouse still does not work in Normal Windows, follow your operating system basic troubleshooting steps for your version of Windows.
Bad Mouse
If the above steps do not solve the problem, try another mouse. If the another mouse works, try the mouse that is not working with another computer.
If multiple mice do not work, the computer port is bad. If your using PS/2 or USB port on the back of the computer, the motherboard is bad and would need to be replaced.
If the mouse does not work with more than one computer, the mouse is bad and should be replaced.
Verify that the network adapter is properly installed and detected by the computer with no conflicts. If you're using Microsoft Windows check in 
If this is a wired network, verify that the network cable is properly connected and make sure the 
If you're using a laptop with a wireless network make sure if the laptop has a Wi-Fi button that it is turned on. Many laptops will have a Wi-Fi button that allows the wireless network to be turned on and off. In the picture to the right, is an example of a Wi-Fi button that is currently enabled.
Verify that the floppy diskette that you are attempting to read from is not write protected or bad. Verify that the diskette is not write protected by sliding the tab into the position not allowing light to shine through it. If you do not have a tab place tape over this hole.
Verify that a power connection is also connected to the back of the floppy drive.
PS/2 mouse